Erdem’s eye on eyelet
As a dedicated follower of fashion, I’m always interested in the metamorphosis of brands. Themes and design details which appear to be hallmark, slowly evolve over time, until one day it ceases to be recognizable in an original sense.
The reasons for straying from one’s brand DNA— one might speculate—must be due in part to declining sales or a stagnancy in energy. We’ve all seen it happen, even at mall-level fashion. For one reason or another neon seemed to have been practically invented at J.Crew, nearly becoming proprietary until three seasons later, hardly anyone cares. The sight of one more graphic tee with a splash of neon induces more shrugs than awes.
Such is the nature of the business. Still, the injection of new themes, new life, new ideas, never ceases to destabilize—at least momentarily. And so it went with Erdem. Expecting the usual array of digi printed floral midi dresses, I was indeed surprised to find a full throttle embrace of eyelet in SS20. Not just in the usual prim and proper silhouettes we’ve come to know but in great, voluminous dresses, fit for a Victorian wake and in decorous trenches. It makes one wonder if, enfin, this is the brand’s new face—and if it is indeed a step in the right direction.